Lies near Giogo Alta, the wild glacial saddle between Mount Zebru and l'Ortles.
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| Nation: Italy |
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| Region: Lombardia |
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| Mountain area: Ortles - Cevedale (Lo) |
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| Valley: Val Zebrù |
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Beds:
9
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when it's open:
Always |
Telephone number:
n.n |
Manager:
n.n |
Owner:
CAI Sezione di Cantù, Via Dante 18 - 22063 Cantù |
Maps:
IGM 1:25.000 «Gran Zebrù»; IGM 1:50.000 «Bormio»; Kompass 1:50.000 «Ortles-Cevedale» |
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Place of departure: Baita del Pastore
Altitude at departurte: 2168 m
Altitude gain: 1367 m
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty
: F = (Easy Mountaineering) along the route there are
obstacles that require the use of
mountaineering equipment such as a rope, an
ice tool, and crampons. Climbs at a difficulty
level up to III and ridges or glacial slopes.
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| Access: |
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Leave the Gavia State Road 4 km after Bormio at the same elevation as S. Nicolò and take the turnoff on the left for Madonna dei Monti. Go up the road to Niblogo, where you'll take the Val Zebru road (large parking lot; the road is closed to vehicles) that goes to Ponte Tre Croci. (There is a shuttle service to the Campo alpine hut.) The Val Zebru road ends shortly after Pastore alpine hut (2168 m; 2 hrs from the parking lot). Begin climbing up over numerous curves along the left orographic edge (left when facing downvalley) of the Rin Marè Valley. Come to a large square, from which the cableway to the mountain hut departs. Follow a good trail to the lateral moraine of the Rin Marè Valley and the foot of the rocky butress on which the hut is located. Get to the hut by going up a small detritus valley and then traversing briefly left. From the V° Alpini mountain hut, follow the tracks to the Zebru hanging glacier and cross the point of confluence between the northern and southern basins. Head north to enter the northern basin and go up towards the northeast to an elevation of 3300 m. (On the left the Ortles Pass opens up at 3350 m.) Now go east and up over easy slopes to the evident saddle of the pass.
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| Traverse: |
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na
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| Climbs: |
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To Mount Zebru 3724 m along the northern crest (PD; 1 hr).
To Mount Ortles 3905 m along the southern crest (Hochjoch Grat). Difficult ridge at a high elevation prevalently over rock with a remarkable gain in elevation (over 1200 m). Passages of IV and crumbly rock.
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