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Hut
PIROVANO GRANDE
   3020 metri s.l.m.   
Lies on the hanging glacier of Piana, near the morainic outcropping named Trincerone.
Nation: Italy
Region: Lombardia
Mountain area: Ortles - Cevedale (Lo)
Valley: Valle del Braulio
Beds:
90
Services:
hot water cold water electricity heating toilettes showers restaurant credit cards accepted
(icons key)
when it's open:
June - November
Telephone number:
0342-90.46.21
Link:
web site
E.mail:
send an E-mail
Manager:
Soc. Pirovano Stelvio Spa.
Owner:
Soc. Pirovano Stelvio Spa. del GRUPPO BANCARIO Banca Popolare di Sondrio. C.so V. Veneto 7 - 23100 Sondrio (So) - Tel. 0342-21.00.40
Maps:
IGM 1:25.000 «Gran Zebrù» e 1:50.000 «Bormio»; Kompass 1:50.000 «Ortles-Cevedale»
 


Place of departure: Stelvio Pass
Altitude at departurte: 2758 m
Altitude gain: 230 m su facile ghiacciaio
Time: 1 hour
Difficulty : F = (Easy Mountaineering) along the route there are obstacles that require the use of mountaineering equipment such as a rope, an ice tool, and crampons. Climbs at a difficulty level up to III and ridges or glacial slopes.
 
Access:

Stelvio Pass can be reached from Milan by taking the Spluga State Road 36 then the Stelvio State Road 38 to the pass (212 km from Milan, 82 km from Sondrio, and 22 km from Bormio). From the pass, follow the road that begins at the side of the Pirovano Hotel and go up until you get to Trincerone at 3028 m of elevation, where the mountain hut lies. You can also arrive via the gondola of the summer ski area.

 

Traverse:

To Ninotta bivouac 3380m (2 hrs; F).
To V° Alpini mountain hut via the passes of Tuckett, Camosci and Volontari (route over large glaciers; 4-5 hrs F). Route: Go onto the Piana hanging glacier and then traverse for a long way towards the west-southwest descending slightly. At around 3000 m of elevation, you'll come to the Madaccio hanging glacier. Continue crossing to nearly below the rocky slopes of Madaccio and at this point, turn right (southwest). Begin climbing the small hanging glacier of Baite, which takes you to the large saddle of Tuckett Pass between Madaccio di Dentro on the left and Cima Tuckett on the right. Near the pass, on the ridge that goes towards Madaccio di Dentro, you'll find the Ninotta bovouac at 3380 m. Now, go down towards the south onto the Campo hanging glacier and follow it towards the left, passing near the southern slopes of Cime di Campana. Climb to Camosci Pass 3190 m, which opens up at the foot of the southwest spur of Cima di Trafoi. After the pass, go down a large snow and/or detritus gully onto what remains of the Camosci hanging glacier. Continue over level ground, halfway down the slope, over detritus to the saddle that lies at the foot of the southern spur of Punta Thurwieser (Volontari Pass 3036 m). Now head south, crossing the two branches of the Zebru hanging glacier to come to its southern edge near the small saddle at around 2940 m of elevation. After, take the small trail that shortly leads you ot the mountain hut.

 

Climbs:

To Mount Cristallo 3434m, on the normal route. Starting Point: Stelvio Pass 2758 m, Pirovano Grande mountain hut 3020 m, or Monte Livrio mountain hut 3174 m. Elevation Gain: around 400 m from Pirovano Grande mountain hut; around 300 m from Livrio mountain hut; around 700 m from Stelvio Pass. Difficulty: F. Time: 2-3 hrs just for the ascension (add 1 hr and 30 min if you leave from Stelvio Pass). First Ascension: Oster with the guide, Johann Mazagg on August 26, 1872. Route: Take the gondola that takes you from Stelvio Pass to the Grande Pirovano mountain hut adn then the Monte Livrio mountain hut. From here go onto the the Piana glacier and follow it going south along the ski runs to pass by the foot of the gentle slopes of Punta degli Spiriti. Continue over the glacier on level terrain to come to the summit ridge between Braulio basin and Val Zebru near the large saddle of Sasso Rotondo Pass at 3335 m (1hr and 30 min). Now follow the easy crest that takes you from the pass to the top. It doesn't present any particular difficulty but requires attention when there are narrow snowy ledges or a great deal of snow. To Cima Tuckett 3462 m on the normal route. Difficulty: F (There is a tract with a lot of crevasses where the Piana and Madaccio hanging glaciers meet.) Time: 3-4 hrs just for the ascension (1 hr more if you leave from Stelvio Pass). First Ascension: Julius Payer with the guide, Johann Pinggera on September 12, 1866. Route: Go onto the Piana hanging glacier and then traverse for a long way towards the west-southwest going gently downhill. At roughly 3000 m of elevation, you'll come to the Madaccio hanging glacier. Continue traversing to nearly below the rocky slopes of Madaccio and at this point turn right (southwest). Begin climbing the small hanging glacier of Baite that takes you to the large saddle of Tuckett Pass between Madaccio di Dentro on the left and Cima Tuckett on the right. Near the pass, on the ridge that goes towards Madaccio di Dentro, you'll find the Ninotta Bivouac at 3403 m. From Tuckett Pass turn right and go up the easy eastern ridge of Punta Tuckett over snow and rocks to quickly come to the summit. If you want to take the gondola, you have to leave from Stelvio Pass and go up towards the south or along the unpaved road that leads to Grande Pirovano mountain hut, or directly over slopes, which at the beginning of the season are snow covered. Once you come to Grande Pirovano, go onto the Piana hanging glacier and follow it towards the southeast following the cableway to Monte Livrio mountain hut.

 

 

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