From the Stelvio State Road 38 go left at Tirano (155 km from Milan) to take the road for Bernina Pass. Go over the pass and down towards Saint Moritz until you come to the departure station of the Diavolezza gondola. Near the station there is a stop for the train of the Retic railway.

To Marco e Rosa-Agostino Rocca mountain hut. Route over glacier (F; 4 hrs). To Chamanna da Boval 2495 m (F; 1 hr and 30 min). From the mountain hut go down to the small glacier of Pers below. Traverse towards the southwest heading for the rocky outcropping of Isla Persa at the base of the large ridge of Fortezza. Go back up the outcropping and down over detritus to the opposite side to enter Morteratsch basin. Pass by a glacial lake and go left (south) to the glacier. Cross the glacier over a level path towards the west to the moraine on the opposite side. From here head north and you'll see the intermittent trail that leads up to the mountian hut at 2495 m.

To Pizzo Palu 3905 m, via the normal Swiss route (eastern ridge). Elevation Gain: 900 m from Chamanna da Diavolezza. Difficulty: F+. Time: 4 hours. First Ascent: E:N: Buxton, W.F. Digby, W.E. Hall, J. Johnston, and M. Woodmass with Peter Jenny, Alexander Flury and J.B. Walther on July 24, 1863. Route: From Diavolezza (2973 m) take the path that goes over the level area towards the southeast to come to the upper part of the small year-round snowfield, where the lifts for summer skiing are located. Go over the western ridge of Sass Queder at the saddle between Sass Queder and Piz Trovat. The path crosses the southwest side to bring you to the saddle between this summit and Piz Trovat. Going over easy debris covered ground that is sometimes snowy, the path traverses the east side of Piz Trovat halfway down the slope. Climb up a pair of rock "steps" to come to the saddle of Fuorcia Trovat (3019 m), which leads to the hanging glacier of Pers (1 hr). Go over the glacier along the foot of the northwest side of Piz Cambrena and then up a crevasse covered slope that leads to the glacial basin between the summit and the eastern peak of Palu. Go along the basin, which is increasingly steep, keeping to where it's most convenient to avoid the crevasses. Head for the evident ridge formed by the northeast crest just before the eastern summit of Piz Palu. A few minutes after passing the bergschrund, you'll come to the crest at the height of the saddle of the ridge. From here go along a narrow edge to the eastern summit at 3881 m. Pass over an easy snowy ridge and go down slightly to the saddle that seperates it from the main summit. Follow along the snowy ridge back up to this summit.