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Bivouac
COLOMBO AURORA BIJELICH
   3170 metri s.l.m.   
Lies on the rocks at the base of the southern side of the top of Forcola Alta, just above Scerscen Pass (3122 m).
Nation: Italy
Region: Lombardia
Mountain area: Bernina - Disgrazia
Valley: Val Malenco
Beds:
4
when it's open:
Always
Telephone number:
n.n
Manager:
n.n
Owner:
CAI Sezione Valtellinese Sondrio. Tel. 0342-21.43.00
Maps:
CNS 1:50.000 «Julierpass» e «Pizzo Bernina»; Carta Multigraphic «Pizzo Bernina-Monte Disgrazia»; Kompass 1:50.000 «Bernina-Sondrio»
 


Place of departure: Longoni mountain hut
Altitude at departurte: 2450 m
Altitude gain: 700 m
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty : F = (Easy Mountaineering) along the route there are obstacles that require the use of mountaineering equipment such as a rope, an ice tool, and crampons. Climbs at a difficulty level up to III and ridges or glacial slopes.
 
Access:

a) From Longoni mountain hut (2450 m) follow the Alta Via trail of Val Malenco, which follows the entire circle that closes out Val Fora. After a few tens of meters, you'll come to a marker. go right here, following the signs for Tre Mogge Pass. Go up towards the north over grass and rocky hills to the scree slope below the southern side of the top of Tre Mogge. Following a detritus gully (snow), go over the rock butress on the right which extends from Sassa di Fora to the ledge of Caval, the wide detritus ramp between the butress and the base of the spur. Go up over a discontinuous trail towards the northwest to the moraine basin with a small lake of glacial runoff. Pass by the lake on the right and then go over a small snowfield and a scree slope to come to Tre Mogge Pass. Now go up towards the east to Scerscen Pass and the bivouac. b) From Longoni mountain hut go down the unpaved road from San Giuseppe and follow it east to make a long, almost level traverse. Numerous curves take you to the moraine basin where the road ends and there is a shed for the cableway of Entova-Scerscen ex-mountain hut. Continue along the last meters of the road, which will bring you below the steep slopes that lead up to the eastern ridge of Sassa d'Entova. A trail follows several curves up the slope to the ridge where you'll find the ex-mountain hut of Sassa d'Entova (2954 m). From here traverse the lower Scerscen glacier diagonally, going up towards the southern slopes of Pizzo Gluschaint and, with a slight turn towards the west, you'll come to Scerscen Pass (3122 m). Soon after you'll come to the bivouac which is easily visible from the rocks on the right.

 

Traverse:

To Marinelli-Bombardieri mountain hut 2813 m. Route over moraine and glacier (F, 4 hrs).
To Chamanna Coaz over upper Forcola Pass. First tract over scree and then over the large glacier of Roseg (F; 3 hrs).
To Hotel Fex (F; 3 hrs and 30 min).

 

Climbs:

To Pizzo Gluschaint 3594 m, via the southwest ridge. Elevation Gain: from upper Forcola around 200 m. Time: 4 hrs - 4 hrs and 30 min. Difficulty: PD+, with passages of III. Equipment: rope, ice tool and crampons, slings, and some nuts or pitons. First Ascent: Th. Curtius and J. Eggenberger with Christian Klucker on August 29, 1883. Route: One of the best routes on the mountain and one of the most pleasant of the massif of Bernina over consistently solid rock with short parts over snow. From Colombo bivouac go up over a series of ledges and gullys (marked with red and white dots) to Forcola Alta. Passing over easy, snowy terrain, go up towards the right at the foot of the first protrusion of the ridge. Go around this on the left over steep snowy slopes. Return to the ridge and pass wherever it seems most logical to get to the false summit and then the main summit.

 

 

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