The two buildings are found at 3597 m
of elevation, on the southern edge of
the southwest side of Spalla del
Bernina. The first hut, which is used
today as an emergency and winter
shelter, has beds for 12 people. It was
constructed in 1913. The newer hut,
built in 1964 and reconstructed in
2002, is a few meters above the first
one.
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| Nation: Italy |
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| Region: Lombardia |
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| Mountain area: Bernina - Disgrazia |
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| Valley: Val Malenco |
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Beds:
48
(Beds in winter 12)
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Services:
(icons key) |
when it's open:
From July to September |
Telephone number:
0342-51.53.70
mobile:+39 347 2563096 |
E.mail:
send an E-mail |
Manager:
Giancarlo Lenatti - Via Sigismund, 7-
23023 Chiesa Valmalenco
tel. e fax:
0342 454053
e-mail:
biancoextrem@libero.it |
Owner:
CAI Sezione Valtellinese Sondrio
Tel. 0342-21.43.00 |
Maps:
CNS 1:50.000 «Julierpass» e 1:25.000
«Bernina»; Carta Multigraphic «Pizzo
Bernina-Monte Disgrazia» 1:50.000;
Kompass 1:50.000 «Bernina-Sondrio». |
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Place of departure: Marinelli-Bombardieri mountain hut
Altitude at departurte: 2813 m
Altitude gain: 780 m
Time: 3 - 4 hours
Difficulty
: PD = (Mountaineering Relatively Difficult) a climb on
rock or ice with a continuous difficulty of about
III (with more difficult passages) and glacial
slopes or mixed routes requiring suitable
equipment and fitness level.
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| Access: |
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From Marinelli-Bombardieri mountain hut take the trail that goes up along the cliffs of the ridge of Rifugio, heading northeast over scree and detritus. Come to a series of "steps" interspersed by debris covered ledges and turn left to come out on the wide saddle of the eastern side of Marinella Pass at about 3050 m (30 min). Go north along the flat upper part of the small Scerscen glacier in front of the eastern slopes of Pizzo Argent and the large southern side of the ridge of Guzza. Continuing in this direction, you'll come to the entrance to the gully on the ridge of Guzza near its northern edge, about 30 m from the bergschrund, you'll find the protected route that takes you to the mountain hut. This route consists of metal steps in the more difficult points. There is a metal ladder at the base of the bergschrund to help you get over it.
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| Traverse: |
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To Chamanna da Boval2495 m, along the wide ridge of Fortezza. Route in a magnificent glacial setting (F; 5 hrs).
To Chamanna Diavolezza 2973 m, a characteristic addition to the preceding route (F; 4 hrs).
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| Climbs: |
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To Pizzo Bernina (4049 m) along the Spalla del Bernina and the southern ridge. Difficulty: PD, some passages near the rocky top of the ridge are rated III. First Ascent: F. F. Tuckett and F.A. Y. Brown with Christian Almer and Franz Andermatten on June 23, 1866. The same route more or less was reported by Hardy - Kennedy, who reached the summit in 1861.
Route: From Marco e Rosa mountain hut (3597 m) go up a wide snowy slope that goes up towards the north to below the rocks at the base of Spalla del Bernina. Pass the bergschrund and the small slope that allows you to get to the rocks and continue up by way of the small gullies to the top of Spalla del Bernina at 4021 m (In this tract there are three rappel chains) The route is not obligatory and sometimes the conditions of the mountain can vary without really changing the difficulty. From here the ridge turns abruptly towards the north and becomes thin, going up and down many times. Go over the exposed path along the snowy crest to the rocky part at the end which is relatively easy (II) and will take you to the summit (2 hrs).
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