Lies on the narrow mountain pass of Disgrazia right at the base of the east-northeastern ridge of the mountain.
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| Nation: Italy |
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| Region: Lombardia |
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| Mountain area: Bernina - Disgrazia |
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| Valley: Val Malenco |
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Beds:
9
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when it's open:
Always |
Telephone number:
n.n |
Link:
web site |
E.mail:
send an E-mail |
Manager:
n.n |
Owner:
CAI MONZA
Via Cederna 19 - 20052 MONZA (MI)
Tel/fax: 039.2840806 |
Maps:
CNS 1:50.000 «Monte Disgrazia»; Carta Multigraphic «Pizzo Bernina-Monte Disgrazia» 1:50.000; Kompass 1:50.000 «Bernina-Sondrio»; IGM 1:25.000 «Monte Disgrazia». |
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Place of departure: Chiareggio (Porro and Ventina mountain huts )
Altitude at departurte: 1612 m
Altitude gain: 1500 m
Time: 6 hours
Difficulty
: F = (Easy Mountaineering) along the route there are
obstacles that require the use of
mountaineering equipment such as a rope, an
ice tool, and crampons. Climbs at a difficulty
level up to III and ridges or glacial slopes.
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| Access: |
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From Chiareggio go to the Ventina Alps (Gerli-Porro and Ventina mountain huts; 1 hr). From here go south to the lateral moraine on the right orographic side of the Ventina glacier (right side when facing downvalley). The path goes up the wide base of the moraine among sparse larches and then goes right, along the river, to just below the snout of another glacier. It proceeds steeply towards the left over loose, smooth rocks and debris, going around the snout of the glacier and bringing you to the top. Go over the glacier first towards the south and then, at the large serac which joins with the other glacier on the right, start heading right. Go around and over the serac to enter, at the end, a tiny valley closed off by a rock wall. Go up on the right for about 20 meters over a grassy gully that takes you to the ridge above. First go left over an easy path and then return right to get to the Taveggia bivouac. From here go up the last meters of rocks to come to the rocky ridge above. The ridge leads to the upper basin of the large gully of Vergine. Traverse northwest at the base of the east-northeastern rock wall of Punta Kennedy to enter the glacial basin between Pizzo Ventina and Punta Kennedy. At the northeastern edge of the rocks of Ventina and the east-northeastern ridge of Disgrazia you'll find the narrow mountain pass of Disgrazia and the bivouac.
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| Traverse: |
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| Climbs: |
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To Mount Disgrazia 3678 m along the ENE ridge. "Corda Molla" (AD; 4 hrs).
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