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Hut
GERLI-PORRO
   1965 metri s.l.m.   
Lies at the northern edge of the small level area of the Ventina Alps.
Nation: Italy
Region: Lombardia
Mountain area: Bernina - Disgrazia
Valley: Val Malenco
Beds:
92 (Beds in winter 6)
Services:
hot water cold water electricity heating toilettes showers restaurant self cooking Alpine club discount
(icons key)
when it's open:
From April 25 to May 31; On weekends from June 15 to September 15
Telephone number:
0342- 45.14.04
Manager:
Floriano Lenatti - Via P. Sigismund 5 - Chiesa Val Malenco (So) - Tel. 0342-55.61.53
Owner:
CAI Sez. di Milano. Tel. 02-86.46.35.16
Maps:
CNS 1:50.000 «Monte Disgrazia»; Carta Multigraphic «Pizzo Bernina-Monte Disgrazia» 1:50.000; Kompass 1:50.000 «Bernina-Sondrio»; IGM 1:25.000 «Monte Disgrazia»
 


Place of departure: Chiareggio
Altitude at departurte: 1612 m
Altitude gain: 350 m
Time: 1 hour
Difficulty : T = (Tourist) very easy uncomplicated route. Footpaths, unpaved roads and level trails.
 
Access:

From near the fountain in the church square in Chiareggio, go down to the bridge over the Mallero and cross it. The path that leads to the Ventina Alps (Gerli-Porro mountain hut and Alpe Ventina private hut) is an uphill hike that follows an unpaved road over an easy convenient route.

 

Traverse:

To Angelo Taveggia bivouac 2845 m (F; 2 hrs and 30 min).
To Andrea Oggioni bivouac 3151 m (F+; 4 hrs).
To Del Grande Camerini mountain hut 2580 m (EE; 4 hrs).
To Primolo via Ventina Pass (EE; 4 hrs).
To Bosio mountain hut 2086 m, via Cassandra Pass (F; 6 hrs). To Desio mountain hut 2830 m, via Cassandra Pass (F; 5 hrs).

 

Climbs:

To Pizzo Cassandra 3226 m, along the Via Normale (normal route) of the southwest ridge. Elevation Gain: From Porro mountain hut or Ventina mountain hut to the summit 1266 m. Time: 4 - 5 hours. Difficulty: PD. Equipment: Rope, Ice Axe, Crampons and a pair of Ice Screws. First Ascent: A. Balabio and E. Calegari on July 10, 1910. Route: From Porro hut follow the level grassy part which quickly leads you to Ventina mountain hut. Continue along the rocky bank of the river which is quite wide at that point. From here follow the evident path that goes up onto the lateral moraine left of the Ventina glacier. Continue over the moraine mound among sparse plants. Then, instead of continuing on this path, enter the valley between the two moraines. The trail goes up slightly onto the flank of the moraine adn stays near the river to get to the rounded rocks that form the base of the snout of the glacier. Based on the conditions, you can either keep to the left (generally the preferred solution) or go back up the steep slope on the right passing over the upper part of the snout of the glacier. Continue on the glacier, which is usually relatively easy, towards the southwest heading for Pizzo Cassandra. Keep going in this direction so that when you come to the middle of the glacier you'll be at a wide flat area exactly at the base of the steep valley that takes you to Cassandra Pass. Over an ever steeper slope, you'll come to the bergschrund, which is sometimes difficult to get over. The next snow slide (late in the season there may be ice) takes you to the pass (3097 m). Now take the lovely southwest ridge over rocks and snow, which require attention. The crest takes you first to a false summit and then becomes snowy and practically horizontal, allowing you to get to the main summit in a few minutes. Descent: Go back down over the route you came up on.

 

 

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